Behind the Seams..
Before embarking on a new product or style, a number of factors need to be considered and processes undertaken before the design process can start.
- Key fashion trends
- Innovative fabrications
- Product versatility and the Influence of outerwear
- Ability to perform a function
- Suitability in the entire range
- Market Research
Once the above steps are completed, the concepts are then sketched and presented to the Cake team as a collection.
At this point discussions take place and any changes are made as a result. It is only once all parties are satisfied that the range is suitable for market that approval is given to proceed to sampling.
The Fitting Process
Depending on the style of the garment, a pattern is made digitally or manually (then digitized) using CAD in size 12/34DD (base size).
The pattern is then sent to our sample room with a Specification workbook that clearly lists measurements and requirements.
The workbook details the following:
- Sewing process with stitch and methods of construction
- Materials, elastics threads and items that are be used and their colour allocation with pantone reference
- Base Measurement chart in accordance to the Pattern being sent
- Size range intended, elastic widths request for sizes.
- Once the sample is made it is then sent to HO in Australia to be fitted on a 12/34DD fitting model (real person).
If any changes are made to the style or/and the pattern, these changes are then recorded on an updated spec sheet and sent back to the factory for sampling.
The back and forth process for the 12DD base size can take up to 6 – 7 times.
The Grading Process
Once the base size (12/34DD) is approved, the style is then graded. Grading means that small increments are applied to certain seam lines on the pattern to increase/decrease the size ratio for the size range intended. This is a highly skilled job and requires a lot of knowledge and understanding with the help of a CAD machine.
Once completed a full measurement chart is then submitted to the factory who in turn make a number of different samples in requested sizes.
The samples are then sent back to HO and the fitting process is then once again undertaken. A number of fitting models in different sizes are used to check the fit and suitability of the style.
Depending on their actual fit, the pattern and the grade specifications can be changed to ensure the correct fit.
This process is repeated until the design technician is satisfied that the style fits across the size range intended.
The Production Process
The Production space is booked many months out before the product hits the stores. Preparation/QC and the production time can take many months.
Once a deposit is paid the production process can begin:.
- Fabrics, trims are dyed to the correct pantones and sent to HO for checking, then ordered upon approval.
- Fabrics and elastics are laid to cut, and bundles into their sizes
- Each sewer performs a separate task, re-bundles the pieces and hands to the next sewer, until complete
- A technician is there to check the garments as they come off the sewing line.
- They are all packaged and hung and then shipped to Australia for distribution to our stockists.